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	<title>Comments on: How to Create Monster Photoshop Files</title>
	<atom:link href="http://blog.epicedits.com/2008/04/14/how-to-create-monster-photoshop-files/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://blog.epicedits.com/2008/04/14/how-to-create-monster-photoshop-files/</link>
	<description>A Photography Resource for the Aspiring Hobbyist</description>
	<pubDate>Thu, 21 Aug 2008 20:13:31 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>By: Eric Bier</title>
		<link>http://blog.epicedits.com/2008/04/14/how-to-create-monster-photoshop-files/#comment-64163</link>
		<dc:creator>Eric Bier</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 21 Apr 2008 03:07:06 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.epicedits.com/?p=1911#comment-64163</guid>
		<description>It is my understanding that Maximize Compatibility must be used for Photoshop to work with Lightroom.

If you are willing to give up the ability to re-edit your Photoshop adjustments, you can, flatten the layers, reduce the image size, and change to 8-bit.  This will reduce huge files to 1 to 3 mb.  This works well for a web workflow or other situations where prints are rarely made.  

In my case, I have thousands of images, and I very rarely print.  When I do print, I start from scratch and optimize the file for print.  If I spent hours on each image (see Welcome to Oz, Versace), then I would save large PSD files, however, I consider this more like a painted work of art than photography.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>It is my understanding that Maximize Compatibility must be used for Photoshop to work with Lightroom.</p>
<p>If you are willing to give up the ability to re-edit your Photoshop adjustments, you can, flatten the layers, reduce the image size, and change to 8-bit.  This will reduce huge files to 1 to 3 mb.  This works well for a web workflow or other situations where prints are rarely made.  </p>
<p>In my case, I have thousands of images, and I very rarely print.  When I do print, I start from scratch and optimize the file for print.  If I spent hours on each image (see Welcome to Oz, Versace), then I would save large PSD files, however, I consider this more like a painted work of art than photography.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Saturday Links Fever [2008-04-19] at All Day I Dream About Photography</title>
		<link>http://blog.epicedits.com/2008/04/14/how-to-create-monster-photoshop-files/#comment-64073</link>
		<dc:creator>Saturday Links Fever [2008-04-19] at All Day I Dream About Photography</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 20 Apr 2008 20:38:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.epicedits.com/?p=1911#comment-64073</guid>
		<description>[...] How to Create Monster Photoshop Files EpicEdits Brian shed the light on some reasons why Adobe photoshop files end up so big. [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] How to Create Monster Photoshop Files EpicEdits Brian shed the light on some reasons why Adobe photoshop files end up so big. [...]</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: libeco</title>
		<link>http://blog.epicedits.com/2008/04/14/how-to-create-monster-photoshop-files/#comment-61141</link>
		<dc:creator>libeco</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 15 Apr 2008 17:23:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.epicedits.com/?p=1911#comment-61141</guid>
		<description>Funny how my comment made you think. I must say though the reason I can use smart objects regularly is because I hardly save my pictures as PSD. I know I should, but I just process a RAW file, save it as a JPEG and close the file without further saving.

When I had to choose ten pictures for print (I had a coupon for 10 free A3 prints which I got with my camera) I already noticed how much time it took to select 10 pictures, but afterwards I also needed to process them again. I really have to start changing my workflow. I'm following your tutorials on your workflow and keep thinking: "ah, that's a good idea" , but so far I haven't used it yet.

I always want to do too much at the same time and at the end I haven't done anything...</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Funny how my comment made you think. I must say though the reason I can use smart objects regularly is because I hardly save my pictures as PSD. I know I should, but I just process a RAW file, save it as a JPEG and close the file without further saving.</p>
<p>When I had to choose ten pictures for print (I had a coupon for 10 free A3 prints which I got with my camera) I already noticed how much time it took to select 10 pictures, but afterwards I also needed to process them again. I really have to start changing my workflow. I&#8217;m following your tutorials on your workflow and keep thinking: &#8220;ah, that&#8217;s a good idea&#8221; , but so far I haven&#8217;t used it yet.</p>
<p>I always want to do too much at the same time and at the end I haven&#8217;t done anything&#8230;</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: My Camera World</title>
		<link>http://blog.epicedits.com/2008/04/14/how-to-create-monster-photoshop-files/#comment-61038</link>
		<dc:creator>My Camera World</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 15 Apr 2008 12:23:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.epicedits.com/?p=1911#comment-61038</guid>
		<description>I Love those monster files. Not really, but for my editing approach it is the tool of choice.

For those images that I will turn into large prints, I regularity embed 2 or 3 versions of the file as RAW objects. This permits during the editing process to go back and fine tune each of the RAW versions to achieve a specific effect or to correct a problem that arrives with later editing layers. Each Smart object will have its own mask. The reasons I may have these Smart object layers are to;

Different exposure settings (a bit like HDR)
Warm one area and cool others. (WB)
Fine tune colours (Hue, Sat, Brightness)
Noise reduction, especially if I am bringing up the shadows and I don’t want this effect applied in lighter detail.


To get over the huge files storage problem as I keep most of my good photos on the C drive in there own folder for every print version (includes web) is to create Jpeg file with text with the same name as the PSD  and backup added  (Big-flower-backup.jpg) that tells me that the original Photoshop is located on the external storage once I am finished working with it.


Niels Henriksen</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I Love those monster files. Not really, but for my editing approach it is the tool of choice.</p>
<p>For those images that I will turn into large prints, I regularity embed 2 or 3 versions of the file as RAW objects. This permits during the editing process to go back and fine tune each of the RAW versions to achieve a specific effect or to correct a problem that arrives with later editing layers. Each Smart object will have its own mask. The reasons I may have these Smart object layers are to;</p>
<p>Different exposure settings (a bit like HDR)<br />
Warm one area and cool others. (WB)<br />
Fine tune colours (Hue, Sat, Brightness)<br />
Noise reduction, especially if I am bringing up the shadows and I don’t want this effect applied in lighter detail.</p>
<p>To get over the huge files storage problem as I keep most of my good photos on the C drive in there own folder for every print version (includes web) is to create Jpeg file with text with the same name as the PSD  and backup added  (Big-flower-backup.jpg) that tells me that the original Photoshop is located on the external storage once I am finished working with it.</p>
<p>Niels Henriksen</p>
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