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	<title>Comments on: Making Fine Art Prints: Framing</title>
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	<link>http://blog.epicedits.com/2009/06/24/making-fine-art-prints-framing/</link>
	<description>A Resource and Community for Photography Enthusiasts</description>
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		<title>By: Making Fine Art Prints: Shipping</title>
		<link>http://blog.epicedits.com/2009/06/24/making-fine-art-prints-framing/comment-page-1/#comment-129465</link>
		<dc:creator>Making Fine Art Prints: Shipping</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 16 Jul 2009 23:25:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.epicedits.com/?p=3150#comment-129465</guid>
		<description>[...] THIS SERIES OF ARTICLES! BACK — FRAMING      Share This Post    Related Posts on Epic [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] THIS SERIES OF ARTICLES! BACK — FRAMING      Share This Post    Related Posts on Epic [...]</p>
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		<title>By: Paul Nathan</title>
		<link>http://blog.epicedits.com/2009/06/24/making-fine-art-prints-framing/comment-page-1/#comment-129265</link>
		<dc:creator>Paul Nathan</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 11 Jul 2009 05:50:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.epicedits.com/?p=3150#comment-129265</guid>
		<description>I agree with Sean. Mounting or not mounting is a decision that you as an artist can make. There is nothing inherently wrong with permanently mounting the image, but you need to be aware about it, because once you make permanent framing, the permanent glue will make oxygen chemical reactions with the inks and then you might not reverse your mind,  I advice you not to use acidic and PERMANENT archival quality adhesive, because this makes the picture board dull as ink makes reactions with those acids.

Thankyou for posting such a beautiful article, waiting for your upcoming post&#039;s</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I agree with Sean. Mounting or not mounting is a decision that you as an artist can make. There is nothing inherently wrong with permanently mounting the image, but you need to be aware about it, because once you make permanent framing, the permanent glue will make oxygen chemical reactions with the inks and then you might not reverse your mind,  I advice you not to use acidic and PERMANENT archival quality adhesive, because this makes the picture board dull as ink makes reactions with those acids.</p>
<p>Thankyou for posting such a beautiful article, waiting for your upcoming post&#8217;s</p>
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		<title>By: Rob McKinley</title>
		<link>http://blog.epicedits.com/2009/06/24/making-fine-art-prints-framing/comment-page-1/#comment-128444</link>
		<dc:creator>Rob McKinley</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 01 Jul 2009 18:30:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.epicedits.com/?p=3150#comment-128444</guid>
		<description>I don&#039;t do it myself. i always go to a professional who know this art perfectly.mounting or framing the prints is very necessary as it gives an outlook to the image, it makes it presentable, and gives a completeness feature to the print. well one should go for mounting or framing or matting depend on the fine art print one has made. With me its like sometimes mounting goes and sometimes i go for framing. Even i very particular about the mount to be use because in my view these all add ups to the beauty so they have to be perfect and according to the fine art print.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I don&#8217;t do it myself. i always go to a professional who know this art perfectly.mounting or framing the prints is very necessary as it gives an outlook to the image, it makes it presentable, and gives a completeness feature to the print. well one should go for mounting or framing or matting depend on the fine art print one has made. With me its like sometimes mounting goes and sometimes i go for framing. Even i very particular about the mount to be use because in my view these all add ups to the beauty so they have to be perfect and according to the fine art print.</p>
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		<title>By: Tom Gurney</title>
		<link>http://blog.epicedits.com/2009/06/24/making-fine-art-prints-framing/comment-page-1/#comment-128431</link>
		<dc:creator>Tom Gurney</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 01 Jul 2009 04:34:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.epicedits.com/?p=3150#comment-128431</guid>
		<description>This is a really comprehensive guide. Perhaps you should get a Twitter account, i think you could get more interest in your blog from there.

I think people don&#039;t realise the complexities of framing an art product well, and i think good personal service by someone that knows what they&#039;re doing counts a lot to achieving the best results.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This is a really comprehensive guide. Perhaps you should get a Twitter account, i think you could get more interest in your blog from there.</p>
<p>I think people don&#8217;t realise the complexities of framing an art product well, and i think good personal service by someone that knows what they&#8217;re doing counts a lot to achieving the best results.</p>
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		<title>By: SDuffyPhotography.blog &#187; Blog Archive &#187; Friday Link Love &#8211; 06/26/09</title>
		<link>http://blog.epicedits.com/2009/06/24/making-fine-art-prints-framing/comment-page-1/#comment-127973</link>
		<dc:creator>SDuffyPhotography.blog &#187; Blog Archive &#187; Friday Link Love &#8211; 06/26/09</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 26 Jun 2009 10:55:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.epicedits.com/?p=3150#comment-127973</guid>
		<description>[...] Brian Auer continues his great series on Making Fine Art Prints with his most recent post on Framing. [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] Brian Auer continues his great series on Making Fine Art Prints with his most recent post on Framing. [...]</p>
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		<title>By: Brian Auer</title>
		<link>http://blog.epicedits.com/2009/06/24/making-fine-art-prints-framing/comment-page-1/#comment-127965</link>
		<dc:creator>Brian Auer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 26 Jun 2009 04:48:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.epicedits.com/?p=3150#comment-127965</guid>
		<description>Honestly, I just have my framer do it.  But from what I understand, you can buy many different types of adhesives such as mounting tapes, sprays, and adhesive sheets.  Most art stores will also carry a roller for adhering the print to the mount board -- something like a handheld rubber roller that won&#039;t damage the print surface.  There&#039;s also dry mounting, which requires a different type of adhesive material and dry mount press equipment that uses heat and pressure to activate the adhesive.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Honestly, I just have my framer do it.  But from what I understand, you can buy many different types of adhesives such as mounting tapes, sprays, and adhesive sheets.  Most art stores will also carry a roller for adhering the print to the mount board &#8212; something like a handheld rubber roller that won&#8217;t damage the print surface.  There&#8217;s also dry mounting, which requires a different type of adhesive material and dry mount press equipment that uses heat and pressure to activate the adhesive.</p>
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		<title>By: Sean Phillips</title>
		<link>http://blog.epicedits.com/2009/06/24/making-fine-art-prints-framing/comment-page-1/#comment-127964</link>
		<dc:creator>Sean Phillips</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 26 Jun 2009 04:43:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.epicedits.com/?p=3150#comment-127964</guid>
		<description>Can you expand on how you attach the print to the mount board.  This is where I&#039;m really struggling to find a decent option.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Can you expand on how you attach the print to the mount board.  This is where I&#8217;m really struggling to find a decent option.</p>
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		<title>By: Making Fine Art Prints: Framing (via. Epic Edits) &#124; Shutter Photo</title>
		<link>http://blog.epicedits.com/2009/06/24/making-fine-art-prints-framing/comment-page-1/#comment-127882</link>
		<dc:creator>Making Fine Art Prints: Framing (via. Epic Edits) &#124; Shutter Photo</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 25 Jun 2009 16:02:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.epicedits.com/?p=3150#comment-127882</guid>
		<description>[...] Auer’s next installation of the widely popular Fine Art Prints series is here:  Making Fine Art Prints:  Framing.  Topics covered are mounting, matting and of course the framing - all topics where I will admit [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] Auer’s next installation of the widely popular Fine Art Prints series is here:  Making Fine Art Prints:  Framing.  Topics covered are mounting, matting and of course the framing &#8211; all topics where I will admit [...]</p>
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		<title>By: Charles</title>
		<link>http://blog.epicedits.com/2009/06/24/making-fine-art-prints-framing/comment-page-1/#comment-127876</link>
		<dc:creator>Charles</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 25 Jun 2009 15:19:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.epicedits.com/?p=3150#comment-127876</guid>
		<description>So the tips here are great.  Pretty straight forward.  The problem I have is that using a professional framer puts the prints out of the price point that most people are willing to pay.  Personally it&#039;s totally worth while to have a good frame/matt, but a lot of consumers aren&#039;t that picky, and others just cant afford it.  I guess it becomes a matter of marketing after that:  to which market could you sell a framed fine print and how do you break into that market.  That could be another series for you Brian!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>So the tips here are great.  Pretty straight forward.  The problem I have is that using a professional framer puts the prints out of the price point that most people are willing to pay.  Personally it&#8217;s totally worth while to have a good frame/matt, but a lot of consumers aren&#8217;t that picky, and others just cant afford it.  I guess it becomes a matter of marketing after that:  to which market could you sell a framed fine print and how do you break into that market.  That could be another series for you Brian!</p>
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		<title>By: Sean Galbraith</title>
		<link>http://blog.epicedits.com/2009/06/24/making-fine-art-prints-framing/comment-page-1/#comment-127865</link>
		<dc:creator>Sean Galbraith</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 25 Jun 2009 13:01:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.epicedits.com/?p=3150#comment-127865</guid>
		<description>Tip: If you go in to a frame shop and you ask for a quote... walk away if they pull out a big thick industry framing pricing book. You&#039;re about to pay way too much. Find a nice small framing shop that isn&#039;t located in a prestigious area for the best prices.

Mounting or not mounting (permanent or not) is a decision that you as an artist can make. There is nothing inherently wrong with permanently mounting the image (using archival materials - more below) provided that the piece is identified as such (i.e. &quot;Pigment Inkjet Print on board. Signed au reverso&quot; or whathaveyou). Essentially, you as the artist are making the decision as to how you want your piece displayed. Same goes with applying a laminate, or using a resin coating. If you want to frame and not have a matte, you need to mount.

Note that standard gator board isn&#039;t rated archival (though, in practice how much this matters is a subject of debate). They do make a product called Stonehenge Gatorboard that included a layer of archival matte between the 

Mounting options generally:
Foamcore: Avoid like the plague. Looks bad. Doesn&#039;t stay flat. Dents by looking at it. Non-archival
Matteboard:Archival, but with the same properties as foamcore (though, doesn&#039;t dent)
Dibond: Really nice metal mounting surface. Really flat, really strong. Expensive. Very clean look. Needs a very experienced shop (I&#039;ve seen many bad dibond mounts). Don&#039;t know about archival qualities.

Glass options:
Standard: Non-UV protective, non archival, highly reflective. Cheap.
UV Glass: The minimum you should use. still highly reflective, but your piece will be protected from sun.
Non-reflective glass: Use with caution. Looks nice from straight on. Not so good from an angle. Slight colour shift. Can&#039;t be used with a shadowbox. 
Museum Glass: The gold standard. VERY expensive and difficult to work with (when I use it, it doubles my total framing cost). Very high optical clarity. Minimal colour shift. Non-reflective.

Sean</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Tip: If you go in to a frame shop and you ask for a quote&#8230; walk away if they pull out a big thick industry framing pricing book. You&#8217;re about to pay way too much. Find a nice small framing shop that isn&#8217;t located in a prestigious area for the best prices.</p>
<p>Mounting or not mounting (permanent or not) is a decision that you as an artist can make. There is nothing inherently wrong with permanently mounting the image (using archival materials &#8211; more below) provided that the piece is identified as such (i.e. &#8220;Pigment Inkjet Print on board. Signed au reverso&#8221; or whathaveyou). Essentially, you as the artist are making the decision as to how you want your piece displayed. Same goes with applying a laminate, or using a resin coating. If you want to frame and not have a matte, you need to mount.</p>
<p>Note that standard gator board isn&#8217;t rated archival (though, in practice how much this matters is a subject of debate). They do make a product called Stonehenge Gatorboard that included a layer of archival matte between the </p>
<p>Mounting options generally:<br />
Foamcore: Avoid like the plague. Looks bad. Doesn&#8217;t stay flat. Dents by looking at it. Non-archival<br />
Matteboard:Archival, but with the same properties as foamcore (though, doesn&#8217;t dent)<br />
Dibond: Really nice metal mounting surface. Really flat, really strong. Expensive. Very clean look. Needs a very experienced shop (I&#8217;ve seen many bad dibond mounts). Don&#8217;t know about archival qualities.</p>
<p>Glass options:<br />
Standard: Non-UV protective, non archival, highly reflective. Cheap.<br />
UV Glass: The minimum you should use. still highly reflective, but your piece will be protected from sun.<br />
Non-reflective glass: Use with caution. Looks nice from straight on. Not so good from an angle. Slight colour shift. Can&#8217;t be used with a shadowbox.<br />
Museum Glass: The gold standard. VERY expensive and difficult to work with (when I use it, it doubles my total framing cost). Very high optical clarity. Minimal colour shift. Non-reflective.</p>
<p>Sean</p>
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